The New Look: A Flawed Portrayal of Fashion History

However, while the series presents a moving and intriguing narrative around Dior’s achievements, it fails to address the historical reality surrounding another prominent figure, Coco Chanel.

Misrepresentation of Coco Chanel

One of the most significant flaws in “The New Look” is its revisionist treatment of Coco Chanel. Despite extensive historical evidence revealing her collaboration with the Nazis, the writers of the series seem determined to minimize or even conceal this truth. Chanel’s story is handled with kid gloves, and her fight to control her business is portrayed as more debilitating than the experiences of European Jews during the war.

Inaccuracies in Chanel’s portrayal:

• The series begins with a question posed to Dior about his involvement in creating gowns for Nazi women while Chanel closed her boutique out of patriotic loyalty. However, the truth is quite different. Chanel closed her boutique, citing that “it was not a time for fashion,” while simultaneously using “Aryan laws” to regain control of her company from the Wertheimer Brothers. She also collaborated with the Nazis and even worked as an agent for the Third Reich.
• The New Look” fails to acknowledge Chanel’s anti-Semitic and homophobic views, instead painting her as a frightened woman forced to obey orders for self-preservation. This revisionism is deeply troubling and does a disservice to the historical record. While performances by Juliette Binoche, Ben Mendelsohn, and Maisie Williams may be commendable, the decision to manipulate Chanel’s narrative is deeply distasteful.

Limited focus on fashion and technical flaws

Despite being a series about fashion, “The New Look” spends little time exploring the designers’ actual work. The cinematography is also lacking, with shaky camera work that detracts from the overall viewing experience. Additionally, John Malkovich’s French accent leaves much to be desired, and the series fails to fully utilize costume designer Karen Muller Surreau’s talents.

Conclusion

“The New Look” may offer moments of emotional depth and compelling performances, particularly from Binoche, Mendelsohn, and Williams. However, its revisionist portrayal of Coco Chanel and its lack of focus on the designers’ actual work undermine its credibility. By distorting historical facts, the series fails to provide an accurate representation of the fashion industry during a tumultuous period in history. Ultimately, “The New Look” falls short of its potential and misses the mark in capturing the true essence of the fashion world during that era.